Comedogenic is an important word to know when dealing with acne and cosmetic products. Its definition is “tending to produce or aggravate acne”. Therefore, a comedogenic ingredient or product is one that will exacerbate acne problems.
For this reason, it is a good idea to read the label of your skin care and cosmetic products before buying them. If you find any comedogenic ingredients, stay away from that product. If you have already purchased a product containing these types of ingredients, throw it out.
Acne Formation
Our skin’s sebum is complex, made of six or seven main ingredients, including triglycerides and squalene, a precursor of cholesterol. The triglycerides are degraded on the surface of the skin by microbes to free fatty acids, which cause acne episodes in genetically predisposed families. As we will see, many cosmetics also contain these acids. Unfortunately, some cosmetics contain esters of fatty acids such as isopropyl mystrate or butyl stearate which are more likely to boost the generation of some acne lesions. These cosmetics can interfere with traditional adult acne treatments.
Before we talk about cosmetic ingredients, we should consider the purpose of sebum. We could be under the impression that sebum is vital to our skin’s health. However, there is no evidence to back up that idea. Apparently, the discharge of sebum is just a vestige whose usefulness has been lost in the process of evolution.
Sebum doesn’t prevent wrinkles either. Wrinkling, or aging of the skin, is a reflection of accumulated sun damage, and no moisturizer in the world is capable of reversing this exhaustion of tissues.
Harmful Ingredients in Acne Treatments
3 main groups of offending ingredients
Lanolins Among cosmetics ingredients, the most commonly used is lanolin. Lanolin is simply sheep skin oil taken from wool. The fatty acids in lanolin, just like fatty acids in our own oil, can accentuate some acne in the skin of individuals with inherited tendency towards acne. Many lanolin by-products commonly being used in cosmetics are damaging to acne-prone people, i.e., etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins. The partially synthetic lanolins are capable of penetrating skin pores even better than biological lanolin. Lanolin oil, itself, is acceptable.
Isopropyl Myristate and its Chemical Cousins
One of the strongest products is a penetrating oil known as isopropyl myristate. It is the main component in penetrating rust remover called Liquid Wrench. Isopropyl Myristate aids cosmetics go on more softly and have a slicker feel. This particular penetrating oil is so aggressive that if left over night in a beaker, it will actually migrate over the top, down the sides and onto the table top. There are many chemicals analogous to isopropyl myristate in cosmetics. The most common are: decyl oleate, isostearyl neopentonate, isopropyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl isothermal, octyl sterate, putty sterate, octyl palmitate and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate. All must be avoided, as must other surfactants such as laureth-4.
Drugs As Acne Treatments
Perhaps one the most disturbing recent findings about acne-producing potential is the red colorations used in blushes. Some of the red dyes used in drugs and cosmetics are comedogenic. This discovery is not unexpected considering they are coal tar by-products. Ever since doctors noticed that acne was an occupational hazard of chimney sweeps, coal tar has been recognized for its acne-causing properties. An adequate substitute for red color is carmine, a dye extracted from insect wings and discovered by the Aztecs.
Always be on the look out for these comedogenic components. Take a moment and read product labels. This simple action can keep your skin beautiful and healthy.
An all-natural alternative to surgical acne scar treatment offers the chance of quickly eliminate acne scars and skin lesions.
- Lisel Torgerson